Most of the Raspberry Pi Zero camera cables you'll find are too short for this project, so I recommend getting both the extender thingy and the extension cable as well.For about $20, you can upgrade your 3d printer with wifi, ethernet, a web-based management interface, and still run it all off the single power cable that your printer came with, and without soldering anything. This is the side that makes the connection, and it should face the board on both the camera and the Pi. If you look at the ends of the ribbon cable, you'll notice one side has the "teeth" exposed. Then push the tabs back down to lock the cable in place. Then, slide the cable into the opening until it's seated firmly in place. To do so, you'll need to pull the tabs on both sides of the camera connector away. Connect the cameraĬonnect one end of the camera ribbon cable to the Pi, and the other end to the camera. You can loosen thumb bolts and thumb nuts to reposition the mount, and tighten them to lock it in place. Using an M3x16 screw, secure the X Axis Bracket to the x-axis motor. Go ahead and assemble the entire camera mount, and put the camera in position as well. It's like putting a puzzle together, and the good thing is that you get to assemble it exactly how you'd like. This part is fairly self-explanatory, and you can use the image as a guide. You can try to print everything in a single batch, but I'd recommend breaking it up into multiple batches (so you don't waste your time). I identified these components in the table above. But I did, in fact, need a brim for some of the components. I used 50% to save time, and it works just fine.Īlso, the author says "no brim". The author provides the proper print settings. Files and quantities STL Fileįirst, read the Thingiverse instructions. I found an amazing camera mount on Thingiverse, but the print comes with a lot of files and is very customizable, so I'll let you know exactly what I did. Check Price on Amazon Print the camera mount
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